First Time at the Feast of Our Saviour in Lija: A Journey from Virtual to Vibrant

There’s something about Maltese festas that you can’t quite understand until you’re standing in the middle of one. That was me a few days ago, in the heart of Ħal Lija, attending the Festa tas-Salvatur — the Feast of Our Saviour — for the very first time. What drew me to Lija wasn’t a recommendation or tradition, but something quite modern: a virtual tour.

I had stumbled across the online tour of the Parish Church of Ħal Lija on VirtualMalta.com — and I was immediately captivated. The elegant architecture, the intricate ceiling paintings, the sacred atmosphere — all of it made me want to experience the church in real life. So when I heard the feast was approaching, I knew this was the perfect opportunity to visit.

A Village Transformed

Arriving in Lija during the feast felt like stepping into another world. Every street was draped with rich, colourful banners, flags, and traditional festa lights. The air was festive, yet reverent — filled with the scent of fireworks, roasting street food, and the joyful murmur of families and friends gathering.

Lija, though one of the smaller villages on the island, comes alive in a spectacular way during its feast week. Locals lined the balconies, proudly displaying red and gold drapery that matched the colours of the titular statue. Band marches filled the air with vibrant sound, winding through the narrow streets as confetti rained from above. You could feel the unity and pride of the community in every corner.

From Virtual Wonder to Sacred Reality

I was already familiar with the church’s layout thanks to the virtual tour, but seeing it in person was something else entirely. The Parish Church of Ħal Lija — dedicated to the Transfiguration of Jesus, or Is-Salvatur — commands attention with its classic Tuscan-style architecture, a design attributed to Gianni Barbara, a Lija native born in 1642. He wasn’t just an architect; he later became the Master Builder for the Knights of St John. It’s amazing to think that someone from this quiet village helped shape some of Malta’s most iconic buildings.

What surprised me most was the artistic legacy embedded in this church. I never expected to find works by Mattia Preti — the famed Italian Baroque artist and Knight of the Order — inside a village parish church. Yet there it was: his 1698 painting of the Transfiguration of Our Lord, standing proudly above the high altar. It was restored in 1869 but still holds Preti’s unmistakable drama and intensity. Preti passed away just a year after completing this masterpiece, in 1699, right here in Malta.

Further up, the ceiling paintings are a visual journey through biblical scenes. They were started by Injazju Cortis in the late 1800s, but after delays, were taken over by another Maltese master — Giuseppe Cali. Born in Valletta in 1846, Cali is considered the father of modern art in Malta. He completed the vaulted ceilings with vivid depictions such as Christ and the Good Samaritan, The Resurrection of Lazarus, and Zacchaeus and Christ.

The layering of these artistic contributions — from Cortis to Cali, from Preti to Barbara — creates a timeline you can feel. You’re not just standing in a building, you’re standing in centuries of faith, ambition, and creativity.

The Heart of the Feast

At the heart of the feast is the titular statue of the Transfiguration, created in 1864 by the celebrated Maltese sculptor Carlo Darmanin, also known as "Carlozzo." The statue, crafted in papier-mâché, is both majestic and deeply human — a reflection of Darmanin’s talent for expressing divinity through earthly materials. It’s carried through the streets with such care and reverence that even as a first-time visitor, I found myself caught up in the emotion of it all.

The crowd went silent as the statue emerged from the church doors, framed by fireworks in the background and flanked by robed devotees. It was a powerful moment — one that I wouldn’t have appreciated nearly as much if I hadn’t already explored the church virtually and learned about its history.

More Than a Feast

The Festa tas-Salvatur isn’t just a celebration. It’s a living expression of Lija’s heritage — a blend of sacred devotion, community pride, and centuries-old artistry. From the architectural genius of Gianni Barbara to the brushstrokes of Preti and Cali, the church stands as a monument not just to faith, but to Malta’s cultural and artistic legacy.

For anyone curious or planning a visit, I highly recommend starting with the virtual tour on VirtualMalta.com. It’s what brought me here — from screen to street, from digital awe to real-world wonder.

And if you get the chance to experience the feast in person? Don’t hesitate. Lija may be small, but its spirit — especially during the Feast of Our Saviour — is larger than life.